Running around Spain
DESTINATION: South Eastern Spain
DATES: 14. May 2021 - 27. May 2021
REASON FOR TRAVEL: PLEASURE & Work
MODES OF TRANSPORT: PLANE (Swiss), CAR RENTAL
The Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències was designed by Valencia’s prodigal architect, Santiago Calatrava.
Planning our trip
A road trip from Barcelona to Málaga is a dream holiday. Our journey along Spain’s Mediterranean coast was nearly two years in the making, starting off with meeting family in Barcelona and then drive to a friend’s birthday in Málaga. COVID threw a wrench into those plans, but we still had our tickets and thanks to an easy rebooking process from SWISS, we were able to make the trip a reality this year, albeit with a few changes.
Valencia
Having already visited Barcelona, we decided to skip it and fly directly to Valencia before embarking on a road trip along the coast for a week of remote work in Málaga. Valencia is Spain’s third-largest city, and as such, it makes for an inspiring destination for a weekend getaway or even longer. We’d recommend not staying near the beach unless you like loud techno music that reverberates nearly 24/7. Unfortunately, the du-wa du-wa noise also makes it hard to enjoy the restaurants along the Playa de la Malvarrosa. Despite the pounding bass, we still recommend visiting La Pepica for their Valencian paella (with Rabbit and Chicken). The service there is friendly and fast, and the excitement of families dining together drowns out the techno from outside.
I was determined to avoid staying in an Airbnb on this trip until the end because it usually has more stress involved with it than what I want on a holiday. We stayed at the SH Ingles Boutique Hotel, which is centrally situated between the neighbourhoods of Ciutat Vella and La Xerea. We were almost able to check in online, and you should be able to use your phone as the key to the room. The operative word in the last sentence is “almost.” Despite the online validation of ID and reservation, we were still forced to register at the hotel, and the phone never did work as a key. However, the room was comfortable, and the hotel well situated. A lesson I learned from the reservation was that when you’re given a “quiet room” option, that just means a room without a view - usually into a back alley or a tiny empty courtyard. Of course, there are no rooms with better sound insulation than others. Next time, I’ll go for the “loud room” and enjoy the views of the ceramic museum and historic streets.
The Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències designed by Valencia’s prodigal architect, Santiago Calatrava, was what drew us like millions of others to the city. The futuristic structures are breathtaking and distinctively Calatrava. From the outside, the collection of six buildings, a suspension bridge and numerous walkways make an imposing impression. When paired with the adjacent L'Oceanogràfic (aquarium) designed by Félix Candela the series of complexes at the end of the Turia Park transport you to a different world. We recommend visiting the museums and aquarium in the early afternoon as already in May, the temperatures can soar above 30ºC. Despite the COVID-19 precautions, the science museum was very accommodating. However, what becomes apparent, is that the building exists for itself, leaving the exhibitions feeling like prefab afterthoughts. The architecture takes away from content rather than adding to it.
Once in Valencia, we discovered that the city had more to offer than just the Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències. The first is the Jardí del Túria, a sunken park along the old riverbed of the Turia River, perfect for nice long runs in the shade of the orange trees. If you’ve got children with you, you’ll want to visit Gulliver Park, where a giant 70-meter long play structure in the form of Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver allows you to play the role of a Lilliputian.
Recipe for Agua de Valencia
70 cl Cava or Champagne
25 cl Freshly squeezed Valencia Orange Juice
25 cl Vodka
25 cl Gin
Garnish with slices of Valencia oranges and ice cubes. Serve in a carafe in Champagne coupe glass.
Note: Some people add sugar, though if you use the sweeter Valencia oranges there is no need for sugar.
Along with all its museums, cathedrals, and squares, Valencia is a treat for epicureans. We ate and drank our way through the city. One of the first things you’ll notice on menus around the city is Agua de Valencia. Coming from Switzerland, I thought the Valencians were simply proud of their local water, but then Elizabeth showed me that the liquid is bright orange. Agua de Valencia is a spruced up Screwdriver (recipe below) and, under the hot Valencian sun, it goes down ever so smoothly. It’s no wonder why you’ll see local quaffing the sweet drink back by the carafe. Recommended by friends and tested by us, the best place to get Agua de Valencia is Café de las Horas.
The first time I was in Barcelona, I visited a Granja M. Viader, where I tried horchata for the first time and fell in love with the stuff. Little did I know at the time, but Valencia is actually the home of horchata and the best place to get it is at Horchateria Santa Catalina. We had two really nice dinners at Fum de Llum with coworkers of mine and at Canalla Bistro by Richard Camarena. Both were fantastic, but Canalla Bistro gets extra points for its top service, where they were very accommodating of gluten-free options, the splendid fusion of flavours and to make it genuinely Valencian, their Torrijas (caramelised French toast) with ice cream.
We also had breakfast at the stunning Mercat de Colón, but as we were warned, the coffee was terrible (did not have a good coffee anywhere in Valencia - I’m sure it exists, I just didn’t find any) and the price was almost that of what we paid for dinner. But the surroundings are beautiful. My tip is to go to the Mercat Central and have breakfast at one of the many restaurants just outside. Nothing beats a Bocadillo and a beer for breakfast. It screams holidays and will make you fit in with the locals.
When your holidays have you stuffing your face with delicious food and drink, it’s good to build in some time for exercise. Normally, I pack in my running gear and never go for a run. On this trip, I made it a point to run in every place we stayed.
On the Road, Day #1
Before I talk about driving, let me say something about renting a car. We rented a car from OK Car Rentals. It was the worst car rental experience we have ever had. Slow service and no offer to help amend our reservation to accommodate two extra days. Furthermore, they are the only car rental agency I have ever had that charged more for an “upgrade” because they didn’t have the car we reserved. The other important lesson learned, don’t rent a car at the airport of the first city you visit. You’ll likely pay for days you don’t drive and need to pay for parking, which is also where there is a chance of damage to your rental car. The solution is to rent the car from a downtown location, probably close to your hotel. You’ll probably notice that the rates are also cheaper.
Back to driving. The roads in Spain are in great condition and can compete with those in Switzerland. What can get confusing is that many roads, especially in cities, can narrow and widen at intersections. You stop at a red light and are continuing straight and there are three lanes of traffic going in the same direction and on the other side of the intersection there are only two lanes. Another note is that the Spanish generally drive over the speed limit both in cities and on the motorways.
Our first real day of driving was from Valencia to Guadalest along the coast. We were expecting to see stunning shorelines and picturesque villages. That is not what you should expect. Instead, we saw a nearly endless tract of holiday settlements that crowd the coast. Worst of all, the buildings are often dated, falling into disrepair, empty and for sale. But who wants to live in what looks like tenement housing, even if it is near the beach? The development along Spain’s coast is yet another example of capitalism run awry. According to a 2018-report in Wired, there were 3.4 million empty flats in Spain that were too unprofitable to sell and too expensive to demolish. Spain has a population of just under 47 million people, and 80% of those under 30 still live at home. These settlements were built as investments, not for the needs of people, and it shows, because young people want and need to live in the major urban centres of Barcelona, Madrid, Valencia and Bilbao not in Denia.
VIVOOD & Guadalest
To celebrate Elizabeth’s birthday, I booked us in at the VIVOOD Landscape hotel outside Guadalest, in the mountainous area of Marina Baixa with views onto the Guadalest Reservoir. Like Gstaad in Switzerland, VIVOOD could advertise with the slogan “come up, slow down” or better yet, “come up, turn off.” Already at check-in, we were told about how the hotel aspires to have its guests enjoy the surrounding nature and leave their mobiles in the room. If you’re looking for a digital detox, this is the place to do it. The hotel has just 35 private cabin rooms for couples, and it makes it clear that it is for adults only.
Our cabin had a wall of mirrored glass facing the reservoir and the mountains, with even the shower leaving you feeling like you’re in nature. There was a quietness to the place. Down at the restaurant, there are two saltwater infinite pools that are perfect for relaxing. There is also a spa where you can book treatments or time to use the sauna, whirlpools and such. Unfortunately, we did not make use of the spa facilities apart from a massage.
At dinner in the restaurant, we were asked if we would like to give up our phones. We both agreed and had them locked in a safety box near the entrance. It made dinner so much more enjoyable to not have a phone on the table that may light up at any moment or just take space away. The food was also excellent with local ingredients.
The Long Road to Alicante
The following morning, we ventured out early to climb to the Castillo de Benimantell situated directly above us. The hike is not far, but it’s a bit of a scramble with no clearly marked path. It turns out, that the staff the evening before thought we were asking about how long it takes to walk to the Castell de l’Alcozaiba (the intact castle in Guadalest. From the ruins the sights were impressive. The hike gave us an appetite for our breakfast by the poolside. After a few hours of lounging by the poolside, we checked out and started on our way back to the coast, but not before first visiting Guadalest. If you visit Guadalest. Pay the money and do the castle tour - it’s beautiful. We also got into a conversation with a local shop owner selling loquats (nispero fruit) in all of its shapes and forms - fruit, wine, liqueur, cake, jam… you get the picture. We bought some fresh fruit and liqueur, which tastes fantastic on vanilla ice cream.
On our way to Alicante, we stopped in Altea, a picturesque town with white buildings and a beach. It was, however, still too cold to swim. We had a delightful lunch at a shabby-chic restaurant aptly named Bistro Shabby Chic.
After wandering the quiet streets of the town, we drove east to Calp for a hike on the Ifach. Due to COVID, the park was shut but you could still hike along the giant massif jutting out into the sea. Between the howling of the wind and the squawking of the birds that had recently laid their eggs, you could not hear very much. The Ifach reminded me a lot of the Lion's Head in Capetown. We did encounter a snake that slithered across the path as we approached. Later on in the car, we found out that it was indeed a poisonous snake if it bites.
As the sun lowered in the sky we got back in our car and headed for Alicante. The light along the coast is beautiful, but the overbuilt coast leaves much to be desired. As we arrived in Alicante, I asked myself if we should not have booked somewhere else. After negotiating some tricky streets though, we pulled up at our hotel, the stunning Hotel Boutique Alicante Palacete S.XVII.
Alicante
Alicante is a city that I always heard about, but had never visited. My impression was that it is a bit of a British hangout. That reputation was confirmed by the number of cars with licence plates from Gibraltar and people speaking English with locals without even attempting to speak Spanish, even for simple things like ordering a coffee or beer. I hate this and think that those of us who travel are obligated to learn a few phrases in the local language and at least show a little humility and try to speak the local tongue.
The hotel we have is stunning, with ceilings so high the room could have a second floor in it. A rooftop terrace gives us a view directly onto the Castillo de Santa Barbara and from our room, we look onto the Concatedral Sant Nicolau de Bari d’Alcant.
Our highlights in Alicante are of course the Castillo and the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, but also two drink and dining experiences. The first is Bar Manero. Seeing this place, my jaw dropped for the classic 20s style of the interior. I later found out, that the owner had it designed in that style, and it was only a few years old. The tile work on the floor, the lamps, the woodwork on the walls, it was all stunning. On top of the fabulous surroundings, they have a fantastic selection of gin, wine and tapas.
The next culinary experience was Mexican. Yes, we went to Spain and ate Mexican, and it was absolutely incredible. Wasamole says street food, but it’s not tacos. They have specials and really capture authentic Mexican cuisine. The husband and wife team (he’s Spanish, she’s Mexican) are remarkable hosts and have made it a mission to show that Mexican cuisine can keep pace with the innovative flavours coming out of Spanish kitchens. I would go back there in a heartbeat.
Granada
After a full day in Alicante, we hit the road again for our longest drive of the trip. To save time, but also for a change of scenery, we drove inland almost immediately. The first thing that we noticed was how erred the terrain is. For much of the time, we felt as if we were driving through a Western film. Had we driven further south and taken the N-340a, we could have stopped in at the filming location of some iconic Spaghetti Westerns from the 1960s, just north of Almería.
In Granada, we stayed in the Barceló Carmen, which featured the narrowest underground parking I have ever experienced. The hotel was well-located, but the rooftop pool left us wanting. It was more of a 10-person tub than a pool with no opportunity to swim, but just cool down. We weren’t in Granada to sit around the hotel though, we wanted to visit the Alhambra.
Thanks to the drop in tourists in 2021, we were able to get entries to the Alhambra without a long wait. If you are travelling to Granada now, though, it is advisable to book your entry ahead of time. Plan to spend at least half a day there and just enjoy it. Be mesmerised by the intricate designs of the tiles, frescoes and masonry work. Relax in the lush gardens and listen to the birds. I cannot praise the Alhambra enough, it is the most beautiful series of structures that I have ever visited.
Granada is not known for its wine, but for its water from the Sierra mountains and thus its beer also called Alhambra. It’s fresh, clean and crisp. Exactly what you want when the temperature in the shade is already above 30ºC, and that was only in May.
When it comes to dining in Granada, venture a little off the beaten path and go down some backstreets to where the locals eat. The area of Campo del Príncipe is full of restaurants and bars, with lots of el fresco dining and a park that helps keep it a little cooler than other squares.
Ronda
Hemingway’s town
Malaga
City by the sea
Where we went
