Don’t expect to fall in love

My friend Robert has spent a great deal of time in Malta. From vacationing there with his family to working as an English teacher and translator, he’s familiar with the tiny island well. Knowing that, he was the first person I reached out to when we decided to plan our vacation to the small and rocky republic off Sicily's southern shores. His first reaction was that he doesn't recommend Malta to anyone because it is a country that is hard to like. One needs time to get used to Malta before one can truly appreciate it. After our trip there, I would say that it is a country most will enjoy visiting, but you most likely will not fall in love with the place.

So Many Cars

Anyone planning a trip to Malta ought to know that the country consists of three islands: Malta, Gozo, and Comino - none of which have rivers or lakes. There are also many uninhabited rocks surrounding the islands that make up the Maltese Archipelago. The main island of Malta is all of 27 kilometres long and 14.5 kilometres wide. Gozo, the second-largest island is slightly more than a quarter of the size of Malta coming in at 67 square kilometres (14 kilometres long by 7.25 kilometres wide). With its minuscule size, you'll probably wonder why you see so many offers for rental cars. It seems that everyone in Malta drives. With just over 490'000 inhabitants, the island nation boasts over 387'000 registered vehicles or 79% of the inhabitants have a car. One of our taxi drivers told us that many people own two vehicles. If we take the average size of a car to be 4.6m long by 1.7m wide, that means that over 3 square kilometres of the island is covered in cars (4.5% of Gozo). Cars are a plague on Malta taking away from the beauty of its rich architecture and rugged coastlines.

Slow Driving on Malta

The roads are generally in poor condition, and the speed limit is often just 30km/h. The 29 kilometres drive from the airport to the Gozo Ferry Terminal will take you 40 or more minutes. Unfortunately, if you want to see the islands at your own pace and see everything in a few short days, a car rental is probably your best bet. It's important to remember that they drive on the left and with the narrow roads and lots of traffic, I would suggest you take out the maximum insurance. If you are staying just on the main island of Malta, the eCabs are quite good and relatively inexpensive, especially if you're travelling as a group. We did both.

Malta is for History Buffs

Those interested in history will love Malta. It is home to some of the earliest temples and structures known to humanity. The Hypogeum of Ħal Saflieni dates back to 3300 BC - predating the pyramids of Giza by nearly a thousand years. The Hypogeum is worth a visit and should be booked well in advance of your trip. We were there in mid-October, and the next available tickets were for mid-November. Other sites like the Ġgantija temples (on Gozo) Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra (in Qrendi), Ta' Ħaġrat Temples (in Mġarr), Skorba Temples (in Żebbiegħ) and Tarxien Temples (in Tarxien) are also worth visiting.

Mdina is Malta's old capital before the Spanish crown gave the islands to the Knights Hospitaller in 1530. Being a naval power, these knights quickly set up the Three Cities and afterwards Valletta as their capital. Since then, Mdina has been the Silent City. We stayed in Rabat, the city built around the old town of Mdina. A visit to the Mdina doesn't take very long, but the blend of Norman and Baroque architecture is lovely. Although only the Mdina's 300 some residents are permitted to bring their cars inside the walls, the streets feel as if they are filled with cars. Though one would think that Mdina would be full of cafés, bars and restaurants, it is hauntingly quiet with just a few places to stop in for a coffee or drink. The Fontanella Tea Garden & Wine Bar is not worth the visit.

The Maltese are ready to help

The Maltese are a hospitable people that will engage with you and always be willing to help. They also speak English alongside Maltese - the older generation speaks it better than the youth though. Despite their over 2 million tourists a year, restaurants are a generally frustrating experience. Even the most excellent restaurants will have menus that resemble novels more than a list of available dishes and drinks. However, you'll quickly learn that 75% of the menu is sold out. That said, in Rabat, we had a fantastic meal at The Fork & Cork. My recommendation for Rabat/Mdina though is The Crystal Palace, a local spot for Pastizzi (Maltese savoury pastries). This little place is open 24/7 and known around the island for having some of the best Pastizzi. I believe some people travel from Valletta to Rabat just to go to Crystal Palace.

A Trip to Valletta

Valletta is the EU's most southerly capital and also its smallest at just 0.8 square kilometres. The city and its neighbouring Three Cities (Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua) were built by the Knights Hospitaller. They feature a rich array of fortifications, churches and narrow streets. The harbours are impressive for the luxury yachts that you'll find in them as well as traditional, vibrantly coloured dgħajsa or luzzu (fishing boats). Taking the water taxi from the Three Cities to Valletta and then the Barrakka Lift or stairs to the Upper Barrakka Garden will yield a stunning view over the region and water. Nearby, you'll also find the stunning Parliament Building, designed by Renzo Piano. Meeting up with a friend, we found a brilliant little wine bar called The Rootz Bar, which serves an excellent selection of Maltese wines and Italian antipasti.

Malta, where the water is blue

Of course, not all of Malta's 2 million-plus tourists are interested in the country's history and architecture. Many are probably lured to the Mediterranean island for its azure waters and numerous beaches. From the Blue Grotto on Malta's South to the Blue Lagoon and the Blue Hole, Malta has fantastic places to swim. I wish that we could have spent an extra day or two on the beaches. What you'll quickly realise is that almost every swimming spot also has a unique geologic feature usually in the form of caves and stone arches. Take a boat ride to get close to these.

Gozo

Gozo is an island that can be visited in a day, though you won't have any time for enjoying the water if you do that. We stayed at the splendid View Point Boutique Living - a small hotel that is just 9-months old. Doreen, one of the owners, was a wonderful host. She helped us plan everything from our dinner in Xlendi to our tour of the island, making sure that we did not miss any of the sites. I would recommend three to four days on Gozo to really spend time at some of its sights and just relax. The cliff walks offer breathtaking views and should be enjoyed at sunrise or sunset. The Citadella in Victoria is an amazing site and, like the Mdina on Malta, is worth visiting at night. The fortification dominates the landscape. If you’re driving to Gozo, you don’t pay for the ferry ride from Malta to Gozo, but pay for both journeys on your way back to Malta. This is surprisingly inexpensive at around 30 Euros for a car with four passengers.

A view from the Sanap Cliff Hiking Path on our last day.

Conclusion

With its rich history, Malta is a destination that is worth visiting. Will you be enamoured and want to go back time and again? Most likely not. However, if you're looking for a place to relax, Malta may be the place for you because you can see most of it in a short time and then just relax by the pool or at the beach with a book and a glass of Maltese wine or a bottle of Cisk - the local beer.