Destination: Chicago, USA

Dates: 30. December 2017 - 7. January 2018

Reason for Travel: Pleasure/Friends

Modes of Transport: Plane (Swiss), Public Transport (CTA) 

Little Germany, Chicago

In August 2016 Elizabeth and I went to Chicago. It was my first trip to the US as an adult, but for Elizabeth the Windy City is home. She has a condo in the Lincoln Square neighborhood of the city, northwest of downtown. What struck me about the area is the German influence. On Montrose, there is the Lutz Café and Pastry shop, and in the most pedestrian section of the neighbourhood, there was the Brauhaus, a German-style beer hall. Unfortunately, it has since closed its doors. Across the way, though, is the Huettenbar, another German beer bar that serves some of Munich's finest beers. Yes, the Germans who first settled in the area have left their mark. 

My first US Craft Beer Brewery Visit

Elizabeth was eager to show me Half Acre Brewing, a craft brewery down the street that has made a name for itself across Chicago for its flavour-forward beers including its signature Daisy Cutter Pale Ale. I was impressed to see the beer culture in this regular neighbourhood at the time. My primary interest though was in visiting the KOVAL distillery near to Lincoln Square. Time was not on my side on that first visit, and I missed out. 

Location Location Location

For New Year 2018, I went back to Chicago in the middle of a cold snap. Daily highs were hitting -15ºC, which, though cold, were tolerable thanks to the sunny days. We stayed at a friend's place near Lincoln Square, and on foot, I discovered the neighbourhood. This year I wasn't going to miss the KOVAL distillery. I arranged a time to visit the distillery and trekked over one afternoon. The distillery is located on the Ravenswood Corridor along the urban train line. There is an industrial feel to the area, though there are residential zones just a block away. This blend of industrial and residential is perhaps the secret to the neighbourhood's revival. For distillers and brewers, the old warehouses offer plenty of space. Being within walking distance of people's homes, a major traffic artery (Lincoln Ave) and near urban train stops (Ravenswood, Montrose and Irving Park) means patrons can walk or take public transit when visiting the area.

The first Chicago distillery in over 100 years

KOVAL is the first Chicago-based distillery since prohibition and merely being able to start production took a great deal of legwork with letters and meetings with aldermen and other politicians. Thankfully the region of Ravenswood was open to welcoming startups in this field. Only in their tenth year of operations, KOVAL has experienced great success, which is attested to by their numerous accolades and moving production to a larger building. Founders Robert and Sonat Birnecker have not only grown their distillery but also branched out into consulting and sharing their knowledge with other aspiring distillers. The result is a spirits brand that has established itself across North America, Europe and Asia. In fact, KOVAL is the premier independent import spirit in Japan. 

Doing it Right

What I admire about KOVAL is their do-it-right attitude. They distil their alcohol themselves and thus have full control over the quality of their spirits. Sonat and Robert only use organic and non-GMO grains from regional producers. Because of their insistence on quality and health, they worked with their barrel producers to switch to a more natural sealing material, namely beeswax, and replace standard the petrochemical paraffin wax that was used before. The result is a more sustainable barrel that produces better spirits. This is a win for the consumer as well. 

Their dry gin has been a favourite in our household since we discovered it in 2015. The whiskey that stood out the most for me was the Oat which I found to be soft and smooth with notes of surprise surprise spiced oatmeal, sugar and cream. This whiskey has complexity and structure which makes it a thoroughly enjoyable tipple for enthusiasts and novices alike.

Welcome to Malt Row

My host at KOVAL, Joanna, showed me the production and gave me a history lesson in KOVAL's 10-year existence. She then told me that the area is known locally as Malt Row, as there are numerous breweries and even the first Michelin-rated brewpub along the corridor. I had no choice but to explore more.

My next stop, was the KOVAL giftshop in the location of the old distillery, about a mile (1.6 km) north of the new site. I needed to buy the limited edition Peach and Pear Brandy. These two distillates are both a beautiful homage to the Austrian distilling tradition that runs in Robert's family.

Beguiled at Begyle Brewing

From there I walked South again passing Band of Bohemia, the Michelin brewpub, which will be on the docket next time we visit Chicago. Further down the way, I found Begyle Brewing, a charming, community-supported brewery. At 3 pm the taproom was already well frequented.  Despite the numerous patrons, Dave, the manager, took time to explain a great deal about Begyle's business model and brewing style as well as how they work together with food trucks and other businesses. He praised the folks at KOVAL, with whom they have collaborated several times. In fact, the head brewer came out with a brilliant beer cocktail she was experimenting with in the back using KOVAL whiskey. Just what I needed on a cold day. Begyle's limited and local distribution is laudable. They understand that fresh is best! See Begyle's menu here.

Maybe the best German-style brewery outside of Germany

The camaraderie between the businesses was impressive. Where Begyle has focused on the APAs, IPAs and other ales, the guys over at the Dovetail Brewery are flying the German-brewing flag high. The founders both did their brewing school in Germany and brew lagers, pilsners and German-style wheat beers. It was almost like being back in Germany - Landjäger sausages, Brezel with mustard and great easy drinking beers. However, what impressed me most was their sour that in my opinion could easily compete with some of the finest sours coming out of Belgium.

Conclusion

Epicureans, beer travellers and those looking to discover another side of Chicago are well advised to put on a good pair of walking shoes and explore Malt Row. The local Chamber of Commerce has also built a simple and eloquent site to show off Malt Row, which I highly recommend visiting and reading up on before going in person. Malt Row Official Site.